Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup unless you frequently leave long clippings on the lawn. Thatch mostly consists of stolons and other grass parts that are breaking down too slowly. A thick layer of thatch keeps water from reaching roots, and it can harbor pests. If you have a half-inch layer of thatch, rake it up. Aerate the soil and increase soil organic matter.
Grass needs as much as 1 to 2 inches of water a week to grow. We often get more than this. But during the summer, we may need to help out with the garden hose. You'll know water is needed when you walk across the lawn and the blades remain flattened. Their color may be dull. Water the lawn deeply to encourage roots to grow downward. If you sprinkle lightly and frequently, the roots will rise to moisture near the soil's surface where they will dry out more quickly - and sometimes die in summer.
Don't waste water. Don't turn your sprinkler on full blast when it's windy. Avoid watering during the heat of the day. Water slowly so the moisture can soak into the soil without running off. There will be less evaporation with early-morning watering. This also allows the blades to dry during the day, reducing the opportunity for fungal problems.
Correct drainage problems, if possible.
Matters become worse when we put off mowing, then cut off long lengths of grass and allow these to fall on top of the dead roots. This debris compacts into a mat. New grass roots begin to grow in this mat where there are few nutrients and no protection from the hot sun. The lawn starts to die.
Some people fertilize throughout the growing season, but I let clippings boost nutrients. Some studies show, too, that frequent fertilization promotes fungal diseases. I do think it's a good idea to fertilize the lawn in the fall with a formula that will encourage root development over the winter. You don't want a lot of top growth at this time.
Two matters always come up in lawn discussions: weeds and disease.
The healthier your lawn, the less trouble you'll have with weeds. Weeds can be pretty visible in late winter before the lawn begins to grow, but I try to be patient and tolerate those that wander into our turf.
Lawn weeds are broken into two groups: broadleaf weeds and grassy weeds. There are annuals and perennials in both groups, and there are pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides to use on these weeds. I try to avoid chemicals, as they can deplete the soil of good microorganisms and earthworms. If you use an herbicide, make sure it is one that will not kill your grass or damage trees, shrubs and other desired plants. However, always spot-spray any chemical first rather than spray your entire lawn.
No doubt about it, brown patch is ugly, and I find I have less tolerance for this pest than weeds. Usually it crops up in the fall; then the grass goes dormant in cold weather. But this year, winter wasn't cold enough to subdue this perennial annoyance.
Brown patch symptoms include circular or irregular patches of blighted turf. The leaves die and pull away from the living stems. The patches range from inches to several feet in width. You'll likely note yellow leaves at the edges of the patches. These leaves look water soaked. Grass blades within the patches gradually dry out and turn brown as the circle grows.
Brown patch is especially troublesome when night temperatures drop below 68 degrees and daytime temperatures are in the 75- to 85-degree range, and when there's abundant moisture. Good luck and have a great 2012 Thank you to all Emerald City Landscaping's current customers and to anyone considering hiring us we look forward to doing business and working with you.